2021 Chardonnay

“This is my 32nd vintage,” Ataraxia winemaker and proprietor Kevin Grant tells me in his church-like tasting room in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, affording spectacular views up to Babylon Peak. “The 2022 [vintage] was one of my most pleasurable harvests. I have an increasing understanding that I am not a winemaker, and that the rock/terroir are the heroes of what we taste. That determines the decision I make. I want to plant vines that are happy here. In terms of winemaking, I am still at the helm. We now have 40% organically grown grapes, and based on our experience, in 2022 when we had 1,290mm of rain compared to a 785mm average, our healthiest bunches turned out to be on organically grown vines. We have not used Roundup for eight years. It makes it more labour intensive, hoeing out weeds and so on, but it is worth it. In the cellar we are exploring more spontaneous ferments, not natural, and not allowing malo in Chardonnay since 2016 by adding sulphur. We are looking to go completely organic perhaps over the next decade, but there’s no safety net, so we are more dialled into sustainable farming.”

Grant explains how with 2020, he oxidises the fermenting juice during the winemaking, what he refers to as “black Chardonnay”, as he feels the variety can become fatigued after four or five years. “There’s no whole bunch pressing, no nitrogen or CO2 or SO2; [I] oxidize as much as possible, literally grinding away the grapes. Then, I do an aerated pump-over for two hours, dropping the juice into a bin and then into the top of the vat, which is always scary; [it] settles, then [goes] into barrel for spontaneous ferment. It’s violent compared to the more reductive style of winemaking. I found myself literally apologising to the juice in 2020. Hopefully it creates a Chardonnay that will age, where the real interest and charm of Chardonnay emerges. We also have a completely skin-fermented Chardonnay until dryness, before pressing into barrel. The reds undergo a ten-day pre-fermentation cold soak: gentle pump-over for a short time, four days, and pressed off for malo.” I ask Grant about the vintage under the spotlight, and he replies: “The 2021 vintage was a challenge in terms of rainfall. We were spraying with copper every week to protect the vines to keep downy and powdery mildew at bay. It was a tiny harvest.” Previously, I felt that Ataraxia’s strongest card was its Chardonnay. Grant just seemed to be more comfortable with that variety vis-à-vis Pinot Noir. However, the 2021 shows that the reds are improving, and they have much to offer this season.