2016 Chardonnay

Some Vinous readers may have seen my shot of the vineyards at Ataraxia one early morning, the fog blanketing the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde valley under the refulgent sun. The tasting room stands alone against a stunning mountainous backdrop and this is where I met with owner and winemaker Kevin Grant (who has a passing resemblance to British comedian Harry Hill.) Kevin, who enjoyed a long stint as head winemaker at Hamilton Russell, is passionate about terroir and emphasizes that he sees himself not as a winemaker, but a “soil farmer”. “This is my 28th vintage,” he tells me. “The 2005 was the first vintage at Ataraxia and the 2018 is perhaps the most enjoyable. The un-wooded Chardonnay comes from very free draining granite and sandstone soils, whilst the wooded Chardonnay is from vines on Bokkeveld shale that are stonier with low vigour. The wines spend around five months on the lees in stainless steel vats, the Chardonnay is barrel fermented. Since 2016 was a warm year, for the first time there is no malolactic fermentation.” Kevin’s Chardonnay has always been the standout for me, unequivocally one of the best in South Africa and very Burgundian in style, seriously up there at Premier Cru level.