2014 Cervaro della Sala

Along with Lungarotti, the Antinori-owned Castello della Sala is Umbria’s most famous estate, expertly manned by Renzo Cotarella, one of Italy’s nicest and most talented winemakers (all the great Antinori wines you may have tried over the years essentially bear his signature). That recognized, the estate’s most famous wine, Cervaro della Sala, has never been a favorite of mine, though I admit to being in the minority. In my view, it’s a mainly Chardonnay wine meant to echo Burgundy that, though it has consistently garnered high scores and awards from the Italian and international press, is hopelessly overoaked and caramelly in almost every vintage. It’s the other wines from this estate that deserve attention; all of them have improved by leaps and bounds over the years. Conte della Vipera (mainly Sauvignon Blanc) and the sweet Muffato della Sala (a complex blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and other varieties) spring to mind.