2003 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg
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I called last year's crop of wines here "as fine a collection as I have so far witnessed at this address," and 2003 is close behind. Much of the riesling here was not harvested until after the frost, which meant careful selection was required, says Alzinger, Sr. , but paid obvious dividends. Most of the wines, including the top rieslings, had been bottled just before my visit, so in certain instances allowances might be in order, notwithstanding the number of superlatives with which I have already endowed the notes that follow. Incidentally, I can recommend every 2003 I tasted here; any wines from Alzinger's collection missing from my account are wines he did not offer me to taste. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2003 Riesling Federspiel Dunsteiner, 2003 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin.
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