2004 Riesling Smaragd Höhereck
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Together with his son, Leo junior, Alzinger makes superb rieslings and gruner veltliners from the best slopes of Loiben and Durnstein.As usual, the Loibenberg and Steinertal wines proved to be the best in 2004. Alzinger's ageworthy wines deserve the same attention as do the wines of Rudi Pichler and Emmerich Knoll.Like those wines, the Alzinger releases are reticent in their youth and require time to evolve in bottle.Not surprisingly, while the barrel samples I tasted in spring were shy and closed, by autumn, when I tasted from bottle, the wines had begun to bloom.To experience the character and enchantment of a great gruner veltliner, one should decant a mature bottle from Alzinger.