1999 Riesling Smaragd Höhereck
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Alzinger accepts the analogy with '97, but describes the wines from that vintage as "creamier" even in their youth, while the '99s are a bit more marked by their acidity. "Not that total acidity is especially high," he adds, "but rather that the wines are high in very efficacious, stronger-tasting tartaric acid." None of his rieslings were picked before mid-November. Alzinger '99 collection had been in bottle only a short time when I tasted, which may account for the tendency of certain wines to appear seized-up and tight. A 1986 Riesling Loibenberg, intensely redolent of cherry pit and lemon zest and exhibiting youthfully fresh, lightly honeyed fruit and shimmering minerality, stunningly illustrated for me the potential of Alzinger's wines.