2012 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi

Brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino seem to finally be getting some recognition for their wines. The tiny cellar is nestled into a home within Monforte's Medieval old city center. Here, among the various tanks, barrels and casks, readers will find some of the most unique and original wines being made in Piedmont today. Alessandro Fantino worked alongside Bartolo Mascarello for more than twenty years. From the beginning, the wines here have been full of potential. But the Fantinos also had to do some soul-searching to arrive at a house style that is more defined than it has ever been. The Barolos are made in what might be called a contemporary traditional style in which the wines are classically rendered but also offer a good bit of near and medium-term appeal. At their best, the Fantino Barolos are compelling.