2004 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi

These new releases from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino are impressive. The 2004 Barolos are particularly breathtaking. Over the least few years the wines have shown a remarkable increase in maturity. Fantino remains an under-the-radar estate well worth discovering. Readers should note that Fantino bottles two lots for each of his Barolos. Wines selected by US importer Robert Chadderdon are aged in cask and are therefore more traditional in style, while the wines sold elsewhere are aged in French oak. The two bottlings allow for a fascinating study in the role of cooperage as the wines are otherwise the same. I have provided notes on both sets of wines. Readers will also note a slight name change in the vineyard designation on labels beginning with 2004, but the fruit source is the same as it has always been.