2013 Rothwell Hyde

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of absolutely brilliant wines at Abreu. The 2013s, which were bottled about a year ago, are not quite as expressive as they were from barrel. Over the years, I have learned that the best time to get a good look at the wines is just prior to bottling (which in this case means the 2014 vintage) during the second year of aging, or after at least a few years in bottle. Nevertheless, the 2013s are impressive, even at this stage. The 2014s continue to grow in barrel. Even so, this is a less immediate vintage than some of the surrounding years, which means the wines will almost certainly require a number of years in bottle to be at their best. Abreu's 2015s are shaping up to be magnificent. I remember seeing the fruit right off the sorting line last year and noting far fewer issues with sunburn and shriveled grapes than was the case at most estates I visited during harvest. Brad Grimes remains arguably the most intuitive winemaker in Napa Valley. In that sense, he reminds me of the most talented musicians I went to college with, musicians who had a natural and easy command of topics most people struggled with. Although Grimes has plenty of help in the vineyards and at the sorting table, in the cellar it is a one man show. These are some of the most artisanal, hand-made Napa Valley wines readers will come across. More importantly, they are every bit as magnificent as these notes suggest.