2012 Rothwell Hyde

The haunting sound of Miles Davis's trumpet rises into the cloudless sky as I open the heavy door. Cool, dark and spartan, David Abreu's winery has a temple-like silence to it, except for the music. I spot winemaker Brad Grimes high up on the catwalk closing up a tank, doubtless very short on sleep, as all winemakers are at this time of year. And then come the wines; four single vineyards, three wines and many, many highlights. David Abreu's wines have long delivered intensity and power, but in recent years they have also become incredibly finessed. The 2012s are racy and voluptuous to the core. Except for the Thorevilos, the 2012s will drink well with much less time in the cellar than is typically required. The 2013s and 2014s, on the other hand, will require more patience, but they won't even be offered for another few years, so there is no rush. As always, Abreu draws fruit off four distinct ranches and most of the lots are co-fermentations based on the simultaneous picking of grapes according to ripeness rather than strictly by variety.