2018 Cappella

Brad Grimes showed me an extraordinary range of wines during my most recent visit. Grimes’ career in wine began in the early 2000s, when the prevailing style in Napa Valley was very different from today, so it has been interesting to watch the slow yet deliberate move towards a more refined style here. Grimes doesn’t say much, but he doesn’t need to. The wines say it all. Abreu fans will want to note that beginning in 2019 Thorevilos is made from a new site not too far away from the original vineyard. It’s a site Abreu planted years ago and is in the process of redeveloping. It will be fascinating where Thorevilos 2.0 goes. Knowing the drive Abreu and Grimes share, I am betting they will look to surpass their previous efforts. Last, but certainly not least, the 2018 Rothwell Hyde is fabulous and a great choice for readers who choose not to splurge on the more expensive wines in this lineup.

It's always fascinating to sit down with Brad Grimes at Abreu and taste through the entire range because of the diversity of sites in the portfolio and the ability to taste three vintages of each wine, something that is rare in Napa Valley. I've said this before, but I really get the sense that the wines are moving more and more towards finesse while retaining all of the natural richness that is the essence of what Napa Valley is about. As always, Brad Grimes is one of Napa Valley's most intuitive winemakers. His interaction with a vintage is like what you might see with a jazz musician, which is to say supremely flexible and responsive. The wines are magnificent, especially the 2017s, which are among the unqualified successes of the year. Readers should note that the 2018 is the last Thorevilos, as David Abreu's lease on that property expired. While it is always a bit sad to see a piece of history come to an end, change can also be invigorating. I have no doubt that will be the case here.