2015 Cappella

This is a positively stellar set of wines from David Abreu and longtime winemaker Brad Grimes. It's always fascinating to stop by Abreu, as this is one of the rare estates in Napa Valley where a typical tasting encompasses three vintages, and that naturally provides a tremendous opportunity to follow the evolution of wines over time. At this stage, the 2017s are component blends, while the 2016s are fully blended wines in barrel that will be bottled this winter, and the 2015s are, of course, all in bottle. Over the last few years Brad Grimes seems to have given these wines an extra dimension of finesse. Always one of the most unassuming and humble winemakers in the valley, Grimes says he hasn't changed anything in the way he is making the wines. But then again, Grimes is an intuitive winemaker, not a technician. In tasting, it seems pretty clear to me there is an extra level of nuance, delineation and purity that makes these wines absolutely thrilling.

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of fabulous wines at Abreu. The 2014s have all gained considerable volume since I first tasted them from barrel. The 2014s are surprisingly accessible relative to how the most recently bottled vintage often shows during my fall tastings. More importantly, the wines feel as though they are made in a less extracted style than just a few years ago. The Abreu wines stand out for their extraordinary purity of fruit and total sense of harmony. As always, Grimes picks according to ripeness regardless of variety, which means that most of the lots are co-fermentations. These remain some of the most riveting, compelling wines being made anywhere in the world. Readers who don't want to splurge on the vineyard designates will find plenty of character and early approachability in the Rothwell Hyde, Abreu's second wine.

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of absolutely brilliant wines at Abreu. The 2013s, which were bottled about a year ago, are not quite as expressive as they were from barrel. Over the years, I have learned that the best time to get a good look at the wines is just prior to bottling (which in this case means the 2014 vintage) during the second year of aging, or after at least a few years in bottle. Nevertheless, the 2013s are impressive, even at this stage. The 2014s continue to grow in barrel. Even so, this is a less immediate vintage than some of the surrounding years, which means the wines will almost certainly require a number of years in bottle to be at their best. Abreu's 2015s are shaping up to be magnificent. I remember seeing the fruit right off the sorting line last year and noting far fewer issues with sunburn and shriveled grapes than was the case at most estates I visited during harvest. Brad Grimes remains arguably the most intuitive winemaker in Napa Valley. In that sense, he reminds me of the most talented musicians I went to college with, musicians who had a natural and easy command of topics most people struggled with. Although Grimes has plenty of help in the vineyards and at the sorting table, in the cellar it is a one man show. These are some of the most artisanal, hand-made Napa Valley wines readers will come across. More importantly, they are every bit as magnificent as these notes suggest.