2008 Cappella

Readers will find much to admire in David Abreu’s 2008s. In most vintages, the Abreu wines are very slow to develop, but the 2008s have largely entered an early plateau of maturity where they are quite expressive. Stylistically, I find the 2008s a bit more marked by oak and torrefaction notes than is the norm these days, which may be a reflection of a different mix of coopers during this era. In recent years winemaker Brad Grimes has shifted towards Taransaud barrels, which he feels are especially well suited to the wines. As always, the Abreu wines are mostly co-fermented blends in which grapes are picked and fermented according to ripeness as opposed to strictly by single grape variety. That, along with Brad Grimes’s no nonsense, highly intuitive approach to farming and winemaking, are a few of the many attributes that make these some of the most distinctive wines being made anywhere in the world.

I stopped by Abreu twice this fall. The first time I tasted the 2008s, 2009s and 2010s. The second time I watched the work on the sorting table and tasted a few 2011s from tank. Both tastings left a deep impression. Brad Grimes is one of the most brilliant winemakers in Napa Valley. He seems guided more by a sense of intuition married to experience rather than the more technical approach that is quite common throughout the valley. Co-fermentations are typical, and Grimes isn't going to lose any sleep if a few jack stems make it into the fermentation tanks. The winery itself is as immaculate as it could possibly be. Simply put, these are some of the most beautiful wines being made in Napa Valley today. The 2008s are big and massively tannic, while the 2009s are much more sexy and silky. The 2010s combine intense, rich fruit and huge tannins. All three vintages are exceptional, but my preference is for 2009 and 2010. Incidentally, two of the greatest wines I tasted this year were the 2001 Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos, both of which remain infants.