2012 Dominus

This is a stellar set of wines from Dominus. The 2013s from bottle are even better than they were from barrel, while the 2012s continue to deliver on their early promise. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2014s, the blends had not been created at the time of my visit. Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2012 as a late harvest, inline with vintages such as 2006, with no heat spikes and an October harvest. Yields were on the generous side. Things were quite different in 2013, a year in which the vineyards saw just 6 inches of rain all year versus 18, which is the norm. Mostero adds that rain in December 2012 allowed for some reserves to accumulate. The year got off to an early start and was warm all the way through to the harvest, with no meaningful heat spikes in the summer. Harvest started on September 10, nearly a month earlier than in 2012. Yields were once again bountiful, although not at the levels of 2012. As for the wines, the 2013s present off the charts levels of richness, dry extract and overall intensity. While most of the attention focuses on the flagship Dominus, readers should not overlook the Napanook, which is superb in both 2012 and 2013.

I was blown away by the wines I tasted at Dominus in October, but not totally surprised, given proprietor Christian Moueix and winemaker Tod Mostero have been on a roll over the last few years. Readers will not want to miss the 2012s, as the wines are off the charts. In 2012, the harvest took place from October 9 to 21, almost a full month later than the historical norm here. As a result, the wines have gorgeous textural richness and opulence, especially within the context of the estate, yet retain gorgeous acidity and overall structure. As good as the 2012s are, the 2013s are even better and are also among the very best wines of the year in Napa Valley. The 2013 vintage was characterized by a slightly condensed growing season. Bud break was about a week later than normal, but warm temperatures during spring and early summer, with very little rain, accelerated ripening.

Production was average in 2011 as the berries were of a decent size, noted winemaker Tod Mostero. But it was a difficult season owing to the lack of afternoon heat and the rain and humidity before and during the harvest. For the first time, Dominus Estate de-leafed both sides of the vines, in an attempt to aerate the fruit and open the clusters to as much sun as possible. As a significant percentage of the fruit had what Mostero described as "weakened skins," substantial sorting was required. Mostero described the 2012s here as "fruity, clean, precise and pleasant." The selection criterion in 2012, he told me, was to avoid getting drying tannins. He is particularly enamored of the young 2013s, a vintage he described as "another dimension: fuller and richer."

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2010 as the most difficult year he has ever seen. A sudden and severe heat spike on August 24 scorched the vines, which weren't at all prepared for such extremes, as the year had been quite cold and moist up until then. The heat torched the vines and took with it 60% of the Cabernet Franc and 30% of the Petit Verdot crop. Production was the lowest since 1984, as quite a bit of wine was sold in bulk. As always, I tasted two bottles of each wine; the first was double decanted about 18 hours in advance, the other opened shortly before the tasting. I consistently preferred the double decanted bottles, and suggest readers follow the same approach when drinking these wines young.