1998 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.

Potential alcohol levels at this estate were in the very high 13.0-13.5% range in '99, which meant that none of the grand crus required chaptalization, Charles Rousseau told me in November. The yields were full, but not at all excessive (just 40 hectoliters per hectare for the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques and the Clos de Beze), and in any event, Rousseau noted, they were a good 10% to 15% lower than in '96. The cool nights in the period leading up to the '99 harvest helped the grapes retain acidity, Rousseau added, with the result that relatively little acidification was needed during the vinification. The wines showed very well in November; even the Gevrey villages grabbed my attention. The '98s were also impressive from barrel a year ago, but a few of my samples of the finished wines did not quite deliver on their early promise. The Rousseau wines have established a strong track record for aging gracefully, so it possible the '98s are just going through an awkward stage.

Rousseau carried out an extensive green harvest in 1999, and had the pictures to prove it. Still, he said, the estate-wide average was 42 hectoliters per hectare due to the large size of the grapes. In '98 and '97, in comparison, yields were in the low 30 h/h range. The '98s, which had been racked before the harvest, were showing very well in November. In fact, I was more impressed than ever before by the flavor intensity demonstrated by the first few wines in Rousseau's range; more than one of his colleagues told me that the work done in the vines in recent years by Charles's son Eric is bearing fruit. Rousseau Sr. continues adamantly to oppose heavily extractive vinification, which he says simply makes black wines without finesse. "All the wines made that way are the same," he notes. He believes that a healthy pH is critical, and thus reacidified the '98s in cuve, as he did with the '97s. The '97s have not benefitted from the late bottling done at this domain.