2004 Barolo Riserva Vignolo
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2019 - 2039
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These two Riservas from Cavallotto were among the most powerful, intensely fruit-driven 2004 Barolos I came across in this retrospective. The 2004s spent a total of about 32 days on the skins. As has been the case here since the mid-1990s, the wines were vinified in rotary fermenters operated on a very slow, gentle cycle. The 2004s then spent five and a half years in cask prior to being bottled. Both Riservas are intense, structured and in need of time. Stylistically, the 2004 Riservas are more about brute power than finesse. It will be interesting to see if the wines develop more subtlety in bottle. Readers should not be in a rush here.
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2019 - 2029
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Cavallotto has been on a tear of late. This year I tasted a number of exceptional wines from this small, family-run property. In particular, readers should keep an eye out for the estate's 2005s. Late flowering that year reduced the crop by nearly 50% and resulted in a set of huge, powerful wines that are atypical for the vintage and that should age exquisitely over the coming years.
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2016 - 2031
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Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn't just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced. As always, Cavallotto is among the last producers to bottle, and all of these wines were sampled from tank. Readers who appreciate a firm, classic style of Barolo will want to spend some time getting to know Cavallotto.
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