2009 Volnay Village

This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. In 2009 Lafarge began harvesting on September 9. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted The 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom.

"The 2009s combine the richness of the '64s with the elegance of the '66s," says Michel Lafarge, who has seen a few vintages in his time. "And there's a real purity of terroir in 2009," he added. "In comparison, the 2005s and 1990s were more marked by their vintage." One reason for this: "With organic viticulture, we get phenolic maturity without exaggerated sugars." According to Frederic Lafarge, grape sugars were in the 12.8% to 13.3% range, and the ripe, tasty acidity contributes to the impression of fruit. Yields in 2009 here were "normal," he added, around 38 hectoliters per hectare for the premier crus. He believes that both the 2009s and 2008s here will be long agers. The Lafarges began harvesting their '09 premier crus on September 9. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)