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Nineteen ninety-eight would have been an exceptional year but for the rain at the beginning of September, Lafarge told me. It was necessary to wait until five days after the ban de vendange for the ground to dry out, and strict selection was required to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes. The result, in his estimation, is a set of wines with very good balance and supple tannins, wines that offer both gras and power: a classic, medium-term ager, to drink after five or six years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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