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The Lafarges were able to hold yields to 45 hectoliters per hectare in their premier crus in '99 through extensive green pruning and subsequent green harvesting. Ripening was very homogeneous, Frederic Lafarge told me in November, typically in the 12.0% to 12.3% range; after chaptalization, the finished wines will be between 12.5% and 12.9% alcohol. Lafarge described the '98s as higher in acidity, more powerful vins de garde that are already closing up after the bottling last spring. In '99, the fermentations were hotter and more tumultuous. I found the new vintage less authoritative than the more sharply defined '98s. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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