1998 Beaune Champs Pimonts 1er Cru
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There was no blockage of grape maturity during the heat of August '99, thanks to healthy leaves that nourished the fruit, enologist Nadine Gublin told me at the end of June. Grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5%-13.5% range, thus avoiding the excesses of '98, and those wines closer to 12.5% were chaptalized by 0.5% to 0.8%. Most of the estate chardonnay was brought in on the early side, while some of the pinot noir was picked after mid-harvest rains. (Domaine Prieur used a vibrating table to dry the pinot grapes, and to eliminate less-than-ideal berries.) Acidity levels of the chardonnay were average, but because much of the acidity was of the tartaric persuasion, the wines should turn out fresh and firm. The domain was looking forward to bottling the '99s with a gentler gravity filtration system. A few of the wines still had some unfermented sugar at the end of June, but the malos were just about finished. The top Prieur '98s showed extremely well on my recent visit.
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This domain did not start harvesting its pinot noir until eight days after the official start of the vintage on the Cote de Beaune in '98, with the result that they brought in fruit with excellent potential alcohol and generally very ripe tannins. "We only chaptalized a few of the Cote de Nuits wines," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but none of the Cote de Beaunes, because the grape sugars ranged from 12.8% to 13.5%." Several of the top '98s showed outstanding potential in November. The extremely ripe '97 reds, none of which were chaptalized but most of which required acid adjustment in the fermenter, are a distinctly mixed bag, with several cuvees a bit flaccid for my taste.
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