1996 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru

Alain Meunier was excited about his '98 crop of wines in January: grape sugars were high, and following the elimination of nearly 15% of the grapes through a strict triage, Meunier felt the wines would approach his outstanding '93s in quality. Vinifications went far more easily than in the previous year, Meunier told me. The grape skins in '97 were ripe to the point of being cooked, with the result that coloring matter was lost. Grapes picked during the afternoon were so warm that it was impossible to do a cold soak prior to the onset of fermentation. Then, reported Meunier, a good bit of malic acidity was lost during the secondary fermentation. (Most of Meunier colleagues, in contrast, say that they began with a relatively low percentage of malic, and thus lost very little acidity during the malos.) A few of Confuron lesser cuvees lacked depth, and the Cote de Nuits Villages and Chambolle villages finished slightly sour. Meunier's '96s, meanwhile, have turned out extremely well. Meunier emphasized that there is now just one cuvee of each cru bottling, made with roughly 90% new oak; only at the village level does he make special cuvees for his American importer, using a bit more new oak than for the wine destined for other markets. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

Alain Meunier '95s were wound rather tightly but the wines from his best appellations number among his strongest to date. The top '96s similarly hold out substantial promise. Still, I found a few of his '96s to be overwhelmed by new oak. Meunier has also begun a negociant business with a lawyer in Lyon who owns vines in several Cote d'Or appellations (they also buy in grapes from Pommard, Volnay and Gevrey): I have also included notes on a few of these wines, which are vinified in the same style as the Confuron wines. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

Alain Meunier '95s were wound rather tightly but the wines from his best appellations number among his strongest to date. The top '96s similarly hold out substantial promise. Still, I found a few of his '96s to be overwhelmed by new oak. Meunier has also begun a negociant business with a lawyer in Lyon who owns vines in several Cote d'Or appellations (they also buy in grapes from Pommard, Volnay and Gevrey): I have also included notes on a few of these wines, which are vinified in the same style as the Confuron wines. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)