2005 Clos du Marquis
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2021 - 2030
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Maussade" (gloomy) was maitre de chai Bruno Rolland's one-word description of the summer of 2007, and yet the results of the vintage are often cheerful and inviting. "We vinified a bit cooler to preserve the fruit, and we liked the press wine, which was charming and impressive," he said. In spite of the sullen weather, proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon noted that there was some hydric stress here during the first half of August (the stressed fruit, he said, eventually went into the estate's second wine, Clos du Marquis). But the cool nights of August led to more refined tannins, Delon added, and many of today's drinkers are going to prefer 2007 to 2006 for this reason. "The 2006 Clos du Marquis and Leoville-Las Cases are drier, tougher, more traditionally styled wines, maybe better for an older generation of claret drinkers." By the way, the 2006 Clos du Marquis is not exactly cheap for a second wine, but it's a major success in the making for this bottling.
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I got the impression from maitre de chai Bruno Rolland that this chateau was very much aware that its dense and powerful 2005 was inscrutable during primeur week last year. According to Rolland, the fruit that was likely to be selected for the grand vin in '06 went directly into barriques in early December following an early malolactic fermentation, then into "cisterns," where it was blended with the press wine, "which brought fat without dryness." "We gained a month of elevage this way, and today the oak is more thoroughly integrated with the wine." My early tasting of this wine suggests that it is at the level of the Pauillac first growths, which is high praise indeed. Production in 2006 will be lower than that of 2005, due to saignee and reverse osmosis, and the estate's linear, tannic cabernet franc all went into the Clos du Marquis.
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Here's a classic example of a 2005 that must have been difficult to taste in mid-March, if not downright inscrutable. Even in early April, it was a brooding monster, but the superior quality, opulence and vibrancy of the 2005 cabernet sauvignon were plain to see.
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