2002 Clos du Marquis
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Jean-Hubert Delon noted that it was important to green-harvest in mid-July, rather than wait until August, by which time the vines had wasted too much energy on the heavy crop load. Delon told me he did gentler pumpovers in 2004 and a shorter, cooler cuvaison in general than in the two previous years in order to preserve fruit. The 2004 represents a strict 34% selection of the estate's production, compared to 54% in 2003.
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Not surprisingly in light of the success of the Northern Medoc in 2003, this chateau has once again produced one of the wines of the vintage. The yield here was just 21.2 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jacques Depoizier, and the grand vin represents a selection of just 54% of the estate's fruit. Depoizier noted that the wine's oak is masking its fat today. "In fact," he told me, "the 2003 will probably close down after the bottling. But we said that about the '96 too, and the '96 is not terribly closed today. We may bottle the '03 later than usual; it appears to need a longer elevage Depoizier described the conditions of 2003 as "a green dryness: the vines didn't lack for water."
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Here's another shockingly ripe 2002, with 13.5% natural alcohol. Only in vintages 1986, 1989 and 1990 did Leoville-Las Cases surpass 13%, said Jean-Hubert Delon. With the severe coulure during the flowering and the hydric stress in the heat of summer, there were similarities to the 1961 vintage, noted Delon. This was one of the most impressive young wines of the vintage, with the Clos du Marquis also a notable success in 2002.
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