1998 Clos du Marquis
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2018 - 2024
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"The summer was difficult but the fruit ripened well at the last moment," said Jean-Hubert Delon. "In fact, the estate old cabernet vines surpassed 13% for the first time, and the cabernet overall was riper than that of 1996." Polyphenol levels were the highest ever recorded at Leoville-Las Cases. Very little reverse osmosis was needed.
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The '99 harvest here featured a huge crop that required drastic eclaircissage, said Jean-Hubert Delon. Still, says Delon, there was less dilution here than on the water-retentive clay soils of St. Estephe and Pauillac. Las Cases carried out less osmose inverse than might be expected following a wet harvest due to the high grape sugars (the alcohol levels would have gone too high): the cabernet sauvignon was picked at the beginning of October with potential alcohol of 12.3%. The grand vin features a particularly severe 32% selection of the estate's best fruit and will age in just 50% new oak, down from 75% in '96 and 65% in '98. As always, this will be one of the top wines of the Medoc, although it remains to be seen if it will equal the tighter '98. Delon, for his part, believes the '99 is currently hiding its power and backbone.
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Reverse osmosis was necessary in '98, said Michel Delon, as nearly 200 millimeters of rain fell during the harvest, which extended from September 23 through October 12 here. There an early austerity to the '98 Las Cases that has Delon describing this vintage as Pauillac in style; 1996, in comparison, is more classic St. Julien. Delon compares '98 to '94, another year that featured harvest-time rain and some not-quite-ripe tannins. But the tannins in '98 are a bit more successfully elaborated, he notes. Incidentally, Delon has been slowly reducing the percentage of new barrels used to make Leoville-Las Cases, down to 75% in '96 and 65% in '98.
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