2004 Clos du Marquis

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2024 - 2027

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I got the impression from maitre de chai Bruno Rolland that this chateau was very much aware that its dense and powerful 2005 was inscrutable during primeur week last year. According to Rolland, the fruit that was likely to be selected for the grand vin in '06 went directly into barriques in early December following an early malolactic fermentation, then into "cisterns," where it was blended with the press wine, "which brought fat without dryness." "We gained a month of elevage this way, and today the oak is more thoroughly integrated with the wine." My early tasting of this wine suggests that it is at the level of the Pauillac first growths, which is high praise indeed. Production in 2006 will be lower than that of 2005, due to saignee and reverse osmosis, and the estate's linear, tannic cabernet franc all went into the Clos du Marquis.

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Here's a classic example of a 2005 that must have been difficult to taste in mid-March, if not downright inscrutable. Even in early April, it was a brooding monster, but the superior quality, opulence and vibrancy of the 2005 cabernet sauvignon were plain to see.

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Jean-Hubert Delon noted that it was important to green-harvest in mid-July, rather than wait until August, by which time the vines had wasted too much energy on the heavy crop load. Delon told me he did gentler pumpovers in 2004 and a shorter, cooler cuvaison in general than in the two previous years in order to preserve fruit. The 2004 represents a strict 34% selection of the estate's production, compared to 54% in 2003.

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