2006 Lagrange
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2021 - 2035
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The Japanese owners of this large St. Julien estate have a very precise plan for continued improvements here. In 2008 they will replace the 200-hectoliter vats with containers about half that size to facilitate more precise harvesting and vinification; in 2009 they plan to renovate the cuverie and the reception area for the fruit; and in 2010 they will move to still smaller vinification tanks holding about 50 hectoliters. Following the retirement last year of long-time estate manager Marcel Ducasse, direction is now in the hands of Bruno Eynard, who worked with Ducasse for 17 years and described himself as "a student of Marcel," assuring me that no major changes are in the works. "We have the same vision, that Lagrange should strike a balance between power and elegance," he explained. "If anything, I would like our wine to gain in elegance." This will be mostly a matter of picking fruit with perfect ripeness, he went on, and the move to significantly smaller vats will facilitate this process, as it allows for the vinification of smaller lots with more even ripeness levels. When I asked Eynard why he considers 2007 to be a year of cabernet, he responded that this later-picked variety benefited from two more weeks of sun in September than the merlot did. "That's the only explanation I can think of," he concluded. "The merlot had the technical numbers [actually, as high as 14.5% potential alcohol] but the fruit wasn't really phenolically ripe."
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Director Marcel Ducasse, who was scheduled to retire at the end of April after literally returning this large chateau to life for its Japanese owner Suntory since 1984, has produced a big, chocolatey-rich 2006 that represents a very strict 41% selection of the property's fruit. Ducasse declassified all the petit verdot because he found it too tannic. "The vintage was already tannic enough to begin with," he explained. "The petit verdot would have knocked the wine off balance. With tannins that were denser than normal [the IPT is currently 80], we had to extract carefully. And of course it was impossible to use Entropie or reverse osmosis because we began with elevated grape sugars."
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