France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot
00
2021 - 2036
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The Japanese owners of this large St. Julien estate have a very precise plan for continued improvements here. In 2008 they will replace the 200-hectoliter vats with containers about half that size to facilitate more precise harvesting and vinification; in 2009 they plan to renovate the cuverie and the reception area for the fruit; and in 2010 they will move to still smaller vinification tanks holding about 50 hectoliters. Following the retirement last year of long-time estate manager Marcel Ducasse, direction is now in the hands of Bruno Eynard, who worked with Ducasse for 17 years and described himself as "a student of Marcel," assuring me that no major changes are in the works. "We have the same vision, that Lagrange should strike a balance between power and elegance," he explained. "If anything, I would like our wine to gain in elegance." This will be mostly a matter of picking fruit with perfect ripeness, he went on, and the move to significantly smaller vats will facilitate this process, as it allows for the vinification of smaller lots with more even ripeness levels. When I asked Eynard why he considers 2007 to be a year of cabernet, he responded that this later-picked variety benefited from two more weeks of sun in September than the merlot did. "That's the only explanation I can think of," he concluded. "The merlot had the technical numbers [actually, as high as 14.5% potential alcohol] but the fruit wasn't really phenolically ripe."
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