2003 Domaine de Chevalier
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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Late harvesting of thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon has resulted in the richest red wine in many years at this address. After having made a number of lean, hard wines in the 1990s, Domaine de Chevalier is now practicing more disciplined crop reduction, and with each year the estate's replanted parcels are gaining in maturity. With the advice of the talented winemaking consultant Stephane Derenencourt, Domaine de Chevalier harvested its merlot during the last week of September and picked cabernet sauvignon from October 5 through 17.
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Even after a lot of leaf-pulling and crop-thinning in July and August, the maturity came very slowly, reported manager Remi Edange. The white grapes were harvested from September 8 through October 2, but Domaine de Chevalier did not begin picking its merlot until the whites were finished. The cabernet franc and petit verdot were harvested on October 12, and the cabernet sauvignon was ultimately finished on October 20. Ultimately the skins got ripe, noted Edange, and there was no greenness. A saignee of 15% to 20% was done to concentrate the must, and the estate also used vacuum evaporation on certain lots. Incidentally, when I described 2003 as a vintage without precedent, Edange quipped "and possibly without a future either"-a comment not on the Domaine de Chevalier '03 but on the impossibility of knowing with any confidence how wines from this vintage will age.
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"We tasted the white grapes on August 18, after we returned from vacation," said manager Remi Edange, "but they weren't ripe despite having low acidity and high sugars. So we waited a full week. We picked a bit on August 25, then really stopped again until early September." Rain on September 12 necessitated harvesting merlot, as the skins of the grapes were quickly affected, but Domaine de Chevalier waited until September 25 to bring in its cabernet sauvignon. "It was a harvest filled with difficult choices," Edange summarized, "but the 2003 has been a simple wine to make, with problem-free vinifications." The yield for red grapes averaged 46 hectoliters per hectare, but only 38 for the sauvignon blanc and semillon.
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