2004 Domaine de Chevalier
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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"When you compare our red wines in 2006 and 2004, the numbers are close and the structures are similar," noted manager Remi Edange, "but 2006 is a more feminine wine, while 2004 is more masculine. We were more sure of the quality at the beginning in 2006 than in 2004." The estate waited until late in both seasons to bring in its cabernet sauvignon-until October 8 in 2006 and October 21 in 2004-but in 2006 the cabernet was all picked in just four or five days, before rot became widespread. Edange said that less than 10% of the fruit was eliminated at the outset, and that some saignee and use of the Entropie method was used to concentrate the must. One of the advantages here is that there has been no replanting in about 15 years: today, according to Edange, about one-third of the vines are 40 years old or more, and another one-third about 30 years of age.
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Late harvesting of thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon has resulted in the richest red wine in many years at this address. After having made a number of lean, hard wines in the 1990s, Domaine de Chevalier is now practicing more disciplined crop reduction, and with each year the estate's replanted parcels are gaining in maturity. With the advice of the talented winemaking consultant Stephane Derenencourt, Domaine de Chevalier harvested its merlot during the last week of September and picked cabernet sauvignon from October 5 through 17.
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Even after a lot of leaf-pulling and crop-thinning in July and August, the maturity came very slowly, reported manager Remi Edange. The white grapes were harvested from September 8 through October 2, but Domaine de Chevalier did not begin picking its merlot until the whites were finished. The cabernet franc and petit verdot were harvested on October 12, and the cabernet sauvignon was ultimately finished on October 20. Ultimately the skins got ripe, noted Edange, and there was no greenness. A saignee of 15% to 20% was done to concentrate the must, and the estate also used vacuum evaporation on certain lots. Incidentally, when I described 2003 as a vintage without precedent, Edange quipped "and possibly without a future either"-a comment not on the Domaine de Chevalier '03 but on the impossibility of knowing with any confidence how wines from this vintage will age.
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