2017 Domaine de Chevalier
France
Pessac Léognan
Bordeaux
Red
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot
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2022 - 2032
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2021 - 2045
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Olivier Bernard is not averse to new ideas but frankly, when you have already produced such a plethora of great wine, why change? One feature visitors will spot upon driving up through the vines to the château is large wind turbines. Surrounded by forest, Domaine de Chevalier can be prone to frost. So how did the vineyard fare in 2017? Bernard enlightened me on two or three measures that made sure he got to the end of the harvest with a decent yield when other vineyards were decimated. “I never expected to harvest the Cabernet Sauvignon this early at the end of September at that level of maturity after a cool summer. That is because the cycle started so early, much more than say, 2003. We did not have frost on the plateau, just some on the western part. We declared 34hl/ha for the whites compared to 48hl/ha for the reds, although this is high relative to our neighbors that were more affected. We have 11 wind fans that really helped. You need to have many fans working together to be effective in moving the cold mass of air. Also, we did half the pruning in March and that also helped against frost. We do the pliage (attaching the tendrils to the wire) in May that also militated against frost which is more damaging if it has already been done. In 2017 we had four weeks of harvest between the beginning and the end – you need less time to pick when the cycle is early.” The word that encapsulates the Domaine de Chevalier Rouge is a French one – “buvabilité” or “drinkability” (it sounds better in French). It is very well balanced, assured and harmonious, not up to the standard of the 2015 or 2016 but a wine that you just know is going to give a lot of drinking pleasure. The standout is the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc that revels in a benevolent season for the whites in general, brimming over with tension and energy, one of the finest that I have encountered in recent years. And no, I had not tasted dozens of tannic Cabernet before any of my four tastings!
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