2001 Harlequin

You have to admire Celestino Gaspari, owner and winemaker of Zymé, because he’s a man that marches to the beat of no one else's drum but his own. He is also a visionary, one who’s unafraid of experimentation and technology, and he holds himself to the highest standards, which he also expects from his team. The wines can seem modern (or internationally styled), at times unabashedly so, but they are also revelations, incredibly unique and highly enjoyable. Celestino Gaspari doesn’t need to fall back on his experience working with GIuseppe Quintarelli, in fact, it seems almost silly to even mention it these days, as the man has created a style all his own. You’ll find the classics in the range; Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore, Amarone and Amarone Riserva, and they all perform at the top of their categories. In fact, the Riserva has ranked among my top wines of the region for two years in a row now. However, the portfolio goes so much deeper than that due to Gaspari’s desire to always experiment. One of those experiments, which continues to thrill me, isn’t even one of the higher-priced wines in the range; in fact, it’s one of the most affordable: the Il Bianco From Black to White. This is a wild blend of Rondinella Bianca, Gold Traminer, Kerner and Incontro Manzoni that has the aromatics of a white, the body of a red and the balance of a well-muscled dancer. I was able to taste multiple vintages, including a 2009, which was amazing at thirteen years old. The wine that is usually the most widely appealing is his Rosso Kairos, a blend of fifteen different grape varieties that is made in a wickedly fresh yet fruit-focused style. Frankly, it really is a party in a bottle–yet without ever going over the top. For the truly bold of heart, check out the Harlequin, another blending of fifteen grape varieties, both red and white, that goes through forty days of appassimento, whole-cluster fermentation and refinement for over two years in 200% new barrique. While some collectors might question this technique, all I can say is, don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. The Harlequin is masterfully balanced, and as evidenced by the 2001 that I tasted at the estate, it matures beautifully over time. I always look forward to tasting through this portfolio, if for no other reason than to see what else Celestino Gaspari has up his sleeves.