2019 Vitovska

Descending into the cellar with Benjamin Zidarich feels very much like exploring a dwarven mine deep below Tolkien’s Grey Mountains. The cellar is carved into the sheer limestone that defines this region, and it stretches down five stories. It is also a perfect way to see the composition of the earth that defines the Carso region, solid rock and limestone, with veins of dark red clay strewn throughout. When seeing this, it’s no longer a surprise that Zidarich decided to begin using this stone in his wine-making process, carving solid pieces into giant fermentation and aging vessels for his wines. For Benjamin Zidarich, it’s all about a return to the ancient winemaking traditions of the region. His eight hectares of Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana and Terrano (an indigenous red) vines are certified biodynamic and tended completely by hand. In the winery, the fruit goes through spontaneous fermentations (more and more often in stone (Karst/limestone) vats), with long macerations spanning two to three weeks. Most of the aging is done in neutral, large Slavonian oak barrels. There’s no fining or filtering, and the use of sulfur is kept to a minimum. The resulting wines can be challenging for the average wine-drinker, yet totally mesmerizing for the adventurous sorts. And yet, while certainly Orange in style, the skin-contact whites of Zidarich blend freshness with richness, and they never seem to tire the palate the way some wines in this category often do.