2008 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

Ryan Zepaltas told me that he's starting to think he's found his voice for pinot noir. "Making wines with lots of extract and power isn't a big deal but it's much harder and scarier to shoot for delicacy. It's also tougher and more agonizing to make a difficult picking decision if you don't want to mess with the wine in the cellar, which I don't. Am I too early? What'll happen to my acidity if I wait? Rain? It's definitely easier to shoot down the middle but that's not interesting to me. You've got to take some calculated risks to make truly interesting and personal wine." Given his earlier tenure as a professional skateboarder, when he was known as "Zappy," this makes sense. The Zepaltas red wines aren't from the outsized school but they don't lack for grip or intensity. They're also wines that gain sweetness and flesh with aeration, which should be kept in mind if you're opening them young.