2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

There’s something about the Zenato style that has always kept me gravitating toward the portfolio. The bigger wines are spicy and vibrant yet unmistakably Amarone, and the Ripasso (or as they call it, “Ripassa”) is almost always a standout and great value in its category. The Zenato winery is located in Sant'Ambrogio at their Costalunga estate within the Valpolicella Classica zone, where they sustainably tend to 35 hectares. Overall, the portfolio is traditional in style yet open-minded. Zenato uses natural air drying for the grapes (unless the vintage conditions threaten the health of the fruit), indigenous yeasts (unless alcohol levels begin to rise too high) and their own design of oval-shaped Slavonian oak casks, from 300 to 750 liters, for refinement of their Amarone, Amarone Riserva and Ripasso. This is a well-delineated portfolio that offers a little something for everyone and plays from strength to strength. Just as I mentioned the spicy vibrancy of the Amarone, the Riserva (an old-vines selection that spends an extra year in oak) communicates a darker, richer, softer, and, dare I say, old-school yet wonderfully enjoyable expression. As for the Ripassa, the term “Baby Amarone'' fits it very well. Nadia Zenato and her enologist, Silvano Tempesta, spoke enthusiastically about their new project, the cru-designated Cresasso, a 100% Corvina that they have high hopes for, and which I look forward to tasting in the future.