2014 Chardonnay

Sandra de Pury represents the fifth generation of her family to oversee this estate, which was established in 1863, and has been steadily taking the Yeringberg wines to higher and higher levels of quality. She began working alongside her father, Guill, in the early 2000s and now, fully in charge, is producing a range of wines that showcase the energy, structure, balance and finesse that are possible in the Yarra Valley. If I had one quibble in the past with the wines here, it was that they were often stubborn to show themselves without ample cellar time and indeed were some of the most difficult Aussie wines for me to get a read on upon release. Recent vintages have produced wines that are more charming on the relatively early side than they were a decade ago, but they are by no means flashy or come-hither. In fact, I think the Yeringberg reds, along with those of Yarra Yering, are probably the most ageworthy wines being made in the Yarra Valley today.