2015 Wiener Gemischter Satz
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“The harvest began earlier than ever, namely on September 1,” related Fritz Wieninger of 2015, “and we finished up on October 13.” Rieslings gave me the impression of not-quite-ripe fruit having been picked for fear that must weights would get out of hand, a hypothesis consistent with a not terribly ripe-tasting Riesling Nussberg that reached 14.5 percent alcohol. “And there was also concern that acidity would droop,” adds co-cellarmaster Luis Teixeira. But Grüner Veltliner and Gemischte Sätze fared well, finished with moderate alcohol, and will very much reward consumer attention. Summer heat predictably hit even harder in Vienna than to the west and north, no doubt with correspondingly longer and more frequent periods of vine shutdown, resulting in a more problematic vintage for Austria’s capital than for points north and west. That having been noted, field blends, which constitute an important share of Viennese production, harbor a unique potential to compensate for conditions like those of 2015 due to their inherent tendency to mingle underripe fruit with fully ripe or even overripe elements.
(The several lots of Wieninger Nussberg Gemischter Satz – only one of which I sampled – had not been assembled when I tasted here in June 2016. I’ll report on that wine next year. Time constraints precluded my tasting recent Wieninger Chardonnay releases, a corpus I last addressed in my report focused on vintage 2013, which also includes details concerning the Wieninger estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, as well as the varietal breakdown on its various Gemischte Sätze.)
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