2016 Wiener Gemischter Satz Bisamberg
Austria
Stammersdorf
Wien
White
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay
00
2018 - 2021
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Other than for Chardonnay and Zweigelt, Fritz Wieninger reported minimal damage from the widespread late spring frost, having effectively contained its effects by burning straw on the hillsides. Picking commenced in early September, nearly breaking the record that was set in 2015 (and broken again in 2017). Wieninger was concerned about retaining freshness in the grapes, and must weights in Grüner Veltliner were in any case already approaching 13% potential alcohol. But then cool weather set in near month’s end, and a sense of freshness and crunch remained in the grapes all the way into the second half of October, yielding wines with welcome animation, cut and refreshment. No doubt the high ratio of tartaric to malic acid contributed significantly to the exhibition of those traits. The conclusion of harvest would not, however, have been delayed quite that long except for some intervening rain that prompted Wieninger to call a temporary halt to picking. What few eventual wines approached or exceeded 14% finished alcohol managed to do so without displaying significant heat or harshness. (For background on this estate, consult especially the introduction to my account of its vintage 2013 wines. My notes on wines of previous vintages – especially those on the 2013s – often contain information on the methods employed and the vineyards in question, including the varietal makeup of the various Gemischte Sätze. Wieninger has since vintage 2013 been responsible for vinifying and marketing wines under the Hajszan Neumann label, on whose 2016s I have reported separately.)
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