2012 Sauvignon Blanc Steinriegel

Although they export half of the 350,000 bottles they produce annually, Wohlmuth is not a household word for most consumers. Given the current quality of their wines, though, that could change. Father Gerhard Wohlmuth was already known in the early '90s for his dry muskateller. While he still manages the vineyards, his son Gerhard, after gathering experience in Germany, Italy, South Africa and New Zealand, has been responsible for the cellars for the past three vintages, adding a new level of complexity to the wines, with his riesling generally being considered one of the best from the region. In the charmingly romantic hills of Sausal, with its old houses and nature park, the bright yellow winery stands in stark contrast to the steep granite and slate slopes. These are some of the highest vineyards in Styria and the finest sites have been documented since the middle ages. When I visited, they were just beginning to bottle the 2012s, which were slated to be released in November. As their finest sauvignon blancs are matured in 600-liter hogsheads, the estate prefers drinking them with about three years of age. (www.wohlmuth.at). Also recommended: 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Klassik (87).