2005 Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese

This estate is located in the middle of a wildlife reserve at the southeastern corner of Lake Neusiedl along the Hungarian border. Between the vineyards is a patchwork of shallow ponds that are a refuge for migrating birds. This is also the warmest region in Austria, which in combination with the pools of water creates a natural environment for botrytis. Not surprisingly, Heinz Velich has long been known for his Beerenauslese, which often spend as much as seven years in barrel before bottling. The 2006 Sämmling 88 Trockenbeerenauslese, one of four excellent vintages that he drew from cask in order to show why he bottles so late, was still not yet bottled at the time of my visit. He doesn't do much in the cellar, refusing to use enzymes or cultured yeasts or to fine his wines. Beyond the ten hectares that he owns, he buys grapes from another ten for his welschriesling, but still seldom produces more than 70,000 bottles a year, including two chardonnays, which are often among the finest produced in Austria in any given year. (www.velich.at) Also recommended: 2012 Welsch Riesling (86), 2012 Muskat Ottonel (87).