2012 Blaufränkisch Goldberg

Wine Details
Place of Origin

Austria

Neusiedlersee Hügelland

Burgenland

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Blaufränkisch

Reviews & Tasting Notes

00

Drinking Window

2015 - 2020

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Heinrich in Deutschkreuz is one of the few leading Austrian estates run by a woman. Surprisingly, Silvia Heinrich also sells 10% of her annual production in China. “Many people look to that emerging market,” she says. “I guess that I was just lucky.”

She also seems pleased with the 2013 vintage, which she believes “has more finesse than either 2012 and 2011.” Although 2009 remains one of her points of reference, she already considers the 2011s to be very similar to the 2009s, "albeit with a touch less concentration but perhaps more elegance.” As she would like to see more finesse and less brawn in her Blaufränkisch, she purchased seven new 2,000-liter casks. “I am not convinced that barriques are the right solution for all of our wines,” she maintains.

After polishing her skills for a year with Hans-Günther Schwarz at Müller-Catoir in the Pfalz in 1998 and then another with Braida in Piedmont, she came back to the family estate in Mittelburgenland to assist her father, who already owned a sizeable portion of vines at the heart of the Goldberg site in Deutschkreuz. On one of its small hillocks they have built an outlook that they use as a small pavilion.

00

Drinking Window

2015 - 2022

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“Rains in early September caused us major problems,” explained Georg Prieler when I asked about the 2014 harvest. “We brought in barely half of a normal crop. Fortunately, we had a run of three excellent vintages before that.” Prieler is known in Austria for his Pinot Blanc, which represents almost a third of his production, but consumers tend to focus instead on Blaufränkisch when they see this label. I particularly appreciate Prieler's respect for each vineyard’s individuality, as he makes two excellent interpretations of Austria’s leading red variety at the high end: the Marienthal has a chalky accent while Goldberg is slate. The bottom line, though, is that you can drink everything from this cellar.