2012 Blaufränkisch Im Weinberg

Created only in 2006, this is one of the younger estates in the Wachau, but it is not without pedigree. Elisabeth Pichler, the daughter of Franz Xaver and sister of Lucas Pichler, was raised next door. And Erich Krutzler is the brother of Reinhold Krutzler, who is known for his excellent Perwolff in the southern part of Burgenland. Erich honed his winemaking skills with Roland Velich at Moric before coming here, which is why the couple also make Blaufränkisch.

As they are not members of Vinea Wachau, they do not use terminology like Federspiel or Smaragd on their labels, but name their wines only after the vineyards from which they are made. This seems like the logical thing to do, but few other producers have the courage to relinquish that perhaps now outdated nomenclature. As each site here is pure in its expression, their approach was in any case the right choice for this estate. Moreover, I admire the style of these wines, which display enormous depth and mineral extract at moderately low levels of alcohol.