2009 Blaufränkisch G

As we walked through his vineyards, Albert Gesellmann pointed to the next little village. “That is already Hungary,” he said. For years his little village of Deutschkreuz on the border was a bit isolated. Now it is a center of innovation for producers of Blaufränkisch.

Since he returned to the family fold in 1995, this estate has gone from strength to strength. Certainly the leading producer of Blaufränkisch in Mittelburgenland, Gesellmann is arguably one of the best in the entire country, with his grand cru Hochberc and G regularly at the head of their class.

In 2011, he began doing organic viticulture and is pleased with the first results. “I think the wines now show a bit more character,” he maintains. He is equally happy with the added dimension wild-yeast fermentations have given his white wines. My goal, he added, “is to make Mittelburgenland the Piedmont of Austria!”

Albert Gesellmann is one of the most personable vintners in Austria. Always sporting a smile, he never takes himself too seriously and always makes his guests feel at home. His cellars in the little village of Deutschkreuz directly on the Hungarian border are equally unpretentious from the street, but nonetheless highly modern. Born in1970, he came back to his family's property in 1992 and took over the estate in 1995. Since then, he has gone from strength to strength. Certainly the leading producer of blaufränkisch in Mittelburgenland, he is arguably one of the best in the entire country, with his grand cru Hochberc and G bottlings regularly at the head of their class. Although I have never taken much pleasure in tasting Austrian wines with much cabernet or merlot, his Bela Rex is a notable exception. In 2011, he began doing organic viticulture and is pleased with the first results. "I think the wines now show a bit more character," he maintains. He is equally happy with the added dimension wild yeast fermentations have given his white wines. (www.gesellmann.at) Also recommended: 2010 Blaufrankisch Rose Brut (88), 2012 Chardonnay (87), 2011 Zweigelt Blaufrankisch "zb'" (87), 2011 Blaufrankischer Hochacker (88), 2010 Pinot Noir Siglos (89).