2011 Chardonnay Cuvée Alyce

When I think about estates that embody the essence of the Russian River Valley, Hansel always comes to mind, as the Chardonnays and Pinots are pure expressions of the richness and generosity typical of this part of Sonoma. The Chardonnays are fermented in barrel, with less stirring, and bottled after about 10 months in oak, while the Pinots are made from fully destemmed fruit and also see about the same amount of time in barrel followed by a few months in tank prior to bottling. The 2012 Chardonnays were bottled in August 2013 and the Pinots were bottled in November and December 2013. Best of all Stephen Hansel has retained a focus on value in his pricing that is commendable. Simply put, these are some of the most consumer friendly wines readers will come across anywhere in California.

I was quite taken with the wines I tasted with proprietor Stephen Hansel earlier this year. In particular, the 2010 Chardonnays have turned out far better than I had expected. A year prior, the wines were heavy and clunky. Today, they are complete and beautifully balanced to a degree that is surprising. According to Hansel, in 2010 the Pinots were less affected by the heat spikes that year than the Chardonnays, echoing a common refrain among growers. As was the case throughout California, 2011 was an exceptionally long and cold growing season. Hansel lost the fruit for the Meadows bottling, a casualty of the October rains. At the risk of sounding repetitive, it is impossible not to realize how exceedingly fairly priced these wines are in today's market. Stylistically, the Hansel Chardonnays show the richness from stirring of the lees and the use of 40-60% new oak. The Pinots are made from fully destemmed fruit and also tend towards the bolder side of things. Hansel reported that sugars were about a degree lower in 2011, especially for the Chardonnays. Consequently, he gave the Chardonnays a little less new oak than normal, but at the same time increased lees stirring to give the wines a bit more body. Ripeness of the Pinots was more consistent across the two vintages.