2007 Riesling Oberemmeler Hütte Spätlese

Although 2005 remains the benchmark here, this estate's 2007s have a great deal going for them. After losing a game of poker with Mother Nature in 2006, waiting paid off for Eberhard von Kunow this year. The whole collection shines with ripe, healthy fruit; a firm, salty acidity; and impeccable balance. Von Kunow's son Max compares them to the 2001s, but they are purer and will probably turn out finer over time. My scores may not appear high, but these are eminently drinkable wines that I would enjoy having in my cellar. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA) Also recommended: 2007 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Riesling Feinherb Balduin von Hovel (86), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (89), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese (90), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese (91), 2007 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese i (92), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese i (92), 2007 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese ii (93).