2010 Chardonnay

This is another solid set of new releases from Vineyard 7&8. Under the direction of oenologist Luc Morlet and proprietor Wes Steffens the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon Estate has begun to emerge as a wine of true distinction and personality. As good as the wines are today, my sense is that there is considerable upside still to be realized.

"We've been managing the tannins better since 2008," said cellarmaster Wesley Steffens, whose family bought these vineyards on top of Spring Mountain in 1999. "With the 2009 vintage, the wines are rounder and softer." Under the direction of superstar winemaker Luc Morlet, who began here in 2006, the estate has stopped using fertilizers and is now using irrigation to prevent dehydration of the fruit. Morlet employs a sorting machine that he invented himself, which allows for easier elimination of tart, underripe berries as well as most raisins. Beginning with the 2009 vintage, 500- and 600-liter Darnajou puncheons from Jupilles and Troncais oak have been used for the fermentations (the cap is punched down but no pumpovers are done). "We don't ferment in small barrels because we don't like 200% new oak," noted Morlet.

Winemaker Luc Morlet started making the wines at Vineyard 7 & 8 in 2007. There seems to be a clear progression in the quality of the wines since then. Morlet introduced Clone 4 Cabernet Sauvignon, which he likes for its mid-palate sweetness and depth. In 2009 Morlet also eliminated pump-overs and began working with punch-downs exclusively for the Cabernets, all decisions made with the aim of trying to tame some of the Spring Mountain tannin. Based on what I tasted, the Cabernets are much more interesting than the Chardonnays. The Chardonnay 8 is made from a vineyard in Russian River planted with Wente clones, while the Chardonnay Estate is made from old Wente clones planted on Spring Mountain. Both wines are made with native yeasts, natural malolactic fermentations, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. The Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is made from the older vines on the property, while the 7 is made from younger vines and some purchased fruit from a nearby vineyard.