2014 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

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“Two thousand fourteen is certainly one of my best vintages,” said enologist Eric Germain. He compared the wines to his 2007s, which he said “have always been good and never disappointing.” Interestingly, a year ago Germain also told me that “with their mid-palate volume, the 2014s are like a more vivacious style of 2009.” While the ‘14s as a rule are firmer and higher in acidity than the ‘09s, there’s no doubt that many ‘14s show a creaminess of texture—and sometimes a distinct sweetness to their fruit—early on, with their underlying acidity and minerality only becoming apparent with aeration.

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Girardin harvested between September 12 and 23 in 2014 and all of the wines I tasted were from fruit picked before a substantial rainfall on the 24th except for the Meursault Blagny. According to enologist Eric Germain, grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5% to 12.8% alcohol range—a bit higher for the grand crus—and he did not chaptalize in 2014. He typically carries out a débourbage lasting between 24 and 48 hours but does not stir the lees in barrel. The percentage of new oak, which has declined steadily here in recent years, is now just 10% for the premier crus and 15% for the grand crus. All of the 2014 malos had finished by the beginning of April.

Germain believes that 2014 will be a long-aging vintage due to its density and balance. "It's a bit like a denser version of 2007," he told me. "The wines regained their minerality in the course of their élevage. With their mid-palate volume, they're like a more vivacious style of 2009." In comparison, he went on, the 2013s are a bit thinner in the middle of the mouth, like the 2011s."

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