2019 Series M

My first port of call was at Vilafonté winery on the outskirts of Stellenbosch where there seems to be permanent roadwork outside. Owner Mike Ratcliffe sold his shares in Warwick Estate and is now not only completely devoted to Vilafonté, but is in the process of amicably buying out its shareholders that include Californian winemaker, Zelma Long. Apart from that, the winemaking team is fairly unchanged since my last visit with Chris de Vries as head winemaker, though Arlene Mains, who previously worked at Opus One and Mouton-Rothschild, has been responsible for the “Seriously Old Dirt” label for the last 18 months. Ratcliffe told me that one major development in the vineyard has been the irrigation, piping water directly into the root zone, which they estimate saves 75%, possibly up to 80% of water wastage - crucially in these H2O-straitened times. “It’s more expensive and demands more maintenance,” Ratcliffe tells me. “But it is much more efficient, so you end up using less.” The Vilafonté portfolio has always been based around the Series M and Series C cuvées, which come exclusively from their own vines. Ratcliffe also pointed out that since 2009, Malbec has become the lead blend in the Series M, so it is most convenient that the variety begins with the same letter. He suspects that many of his customers do not realise that Malbec has become the star player, representing 58% of the blend in the most recent vintage. They also have an active late release policy, keeping back 20% of the crop each year, and readers should keep their beady eyes out for a Cellar Favourite where I re-tasted this year’s forthcoming releases. Business seems to be thriving here with a solid customer base in the United States, allocations selling out within four hours according to Ratcliffe. As their vines have matured, many now 25 years old, I have seen a gradual melioration in quality. Maybe it’s the subliminal influence of their association with Zelma Long, but there is a soupçon of Californian…swagger in Vilafonté’s wines; there is growing elegance and refinement in both Series M and C. Juxtaposing the 2019 and 2020 vintages, I err towards the latter that just has a little more boldness and cohesion, whilst the Seriously Old Dirt should certainly not be overlooked.