2003 Anfiteatro

The Anfiteatro Super-Tuscan, first made back in 1983, is actually the house Chianti Riserva, owner Roccaldo Acuti told me. "In reality, we never stopped making our Riserva," he explained. "But I decided to call it by another name as there were too many Riserva wines being made then that weren't any good. Besides, the market at the time wanted something different." Located on the outskirts of Greve in the Classico zone, not far from Panzano, this estate has fast-draining soils and superb sangiovese vines that have been carefully selected by Acuti over the years. "Back in the early '80s I saw a small vineyard that still had some grapes on it that were great to eat at Christmas-time, which amazed me," said Acuti. "I found out who the owner was and I bought the vineyard outright-this is what I mean when I say that the single most important secret to making great sangiovese here is the selection of the vines. Like it or not, it's just like with pinot noir: totally impossible to make great wine with lesser sub-varieties such as those from Emilia-Romagna or from inappropriate terroirs