2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo

Another year has passed, and yet again, the Valentini family has decided not to produce any Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Francesco Valentini and his son, Gabriele, are adamant about not bottling Montepulciano unless it displays its traditional red color and doesn’t show any signs of over-ripeness, something that has not been achieved at this estate since 2015. Instead, the fruit is sold off. Last year, I tasted the 2022 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, yet unsurprisingly, there will be no 2023, as peronospora in 2023 seriously impacted the Montepulciano grapes, something made even more pronounced because of the low-intervention farming here. The family continues to work with Trebbiano, and thankfully so, because it remains one of the best of its kind. The bottle I tasted on this trip was revisited over the course of twenty-four hours and simply got better and better. The Valentini family still has its hands full, as it manages a fully functioning farm that covers over 250 hectares, of which 70% are vineyards. Olive oil is one of their major productions outside of wine and is widely available in Italy and worth seeking out.

While there is not a new vintage of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the traditional house of Valentini this year, collectors will be happy to hear that there is a knock-out 2022 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Francesco Valentini and his son Gabriele continue to set the bar very high, and as a result, they have chosen not to bottle their Montepulciano in 2020 or 2021, deciding instead to sell the wines in bulk. But have no fear about the Trebbiano, which has been able to cope much better with the effects of global warming. This year's release is from the 2019 vintage, a lower production yet cooler vintage (in relation to the last three years). The 2019 is classic Valentini in every possible way. It’s enjoyable today and guaranteed to send your eyes rolling back in your head but with the balance for a long evolution. As has been the case for years now, locating the wines in the market is still challenging. Don't pass up an opportunity to add these wines to your cellar.