2011 Costabate

Andrea Cortonesi and his family embody the artisan spirit of Montalcino, a culture rooted in the land that is increasingly rare, which makes Cortonesi one of Montalcino's few true vignerons. But perhaps the time has come to pay a little more attention to what goes on in the cellar. The Uccelliera wines always boast tremendous concentration, even right out of tank. Then something happens during the aging in which the wines evolve at a faster pace than normal. By the time the wines go into bottle they are often evolved, so it is hardly a surprise to see them aging at a fast clip a few years later. In my view, the Uccelliera Brunellos lack freshness which translates into a lack of ageworthiness. Also tasted: 2013 Rapace.